Sourcedating powered by vbulletin

Its nice to see my idea make it to market so others can get a good product (rated second behind the Air Hammer for sound at its original MFO test) and save more than a few bucks in the process. We also know that, thanks in part to the alloy tube, the thing cools off surprisingly fast when you've been sitting in a staging lane, or at the Taco Bell drive thru. Something that still freaks people out and causes some to promptly reach for their keyboard and hammer away in fury and disbelief. I measured a 6-to-14 degree peak in temperature at the top of the filter, where its up against the hood.My ram air hood, with its air feed at this precise point, cut this down to about a 1-degree bump, but either way it doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out that heat rises, and there is a lot of dead air space under the filter that leads straight down, face-first, into the ambient airflow coming into the engine cavity.

Note I could have and maybe should have chosen a thinner 11-gauge elbow that would have shucked heat faster.

Furthermore, they sell an elbow with a very gentle 12" centerline radius bend (here it is in 11-gauge for just under 18 bucks).

In other words, the 'left' cut is the one you absolutely need to get right the first time. Thats because I was experimenting with a relocation when I took these pics.

NOTE FOR THOSE USING THE VEROCIOUS POLISHED PIPE I find I only need to cut 4-1/4 inch off of the filter end. I eventually drilled into the elbow top-of-center near the throttle body.

That site also has the cheapest price for T-bolt clamps @ about .50 each. BTW I decided to use a breather filter instead of the original F III"s gas recirc hose and fitting (I still have at least a dozen sets of parts to make them in the garage) out of sheer laziness, and the fact that the BT version tested fine with a breather filter itself...

and they didn't use a recirc hose because they were lazy too : P.

Some elements in this original post overlap what is now in Post #2. More than two years after I posted up Frankentake III to the world - a quality intake you can do yourself for almost no money - I have finally gone what I think is the final step with it.

Eventually this post will be rewritten to eliminate this overlap. Something I always wanted to do, and discussed, but never went anywhere with. And more importantly why in God's name would I spend money for this car's ---------- My initial impetus came from Billet Technology. We have lots of hard test data that shows that, with the help of the famous lower radiator baffle mod, the engine compartment is bathed in ambient air when its moving.

The missing or incomplete features were guild allies/enemies, Offline TG. The source is coded in C# and will work with 5017 clients.

ALL the skills and mostly ALL the items are coded and supported. As I used an edited client, the database must be rebuild using original files. In fact, all the skill system is a bit messy as I've done it fastly to open the server. I implemented the real calculation on monster for red/black names.

This may offer the smoothest airflow channel of all but I wasn't 100% it would fit, and didn't want to put too much extra money into this experiment. ===================================== EDIT: Look to the Frankentake III thread for parts suppliers, since they are all the same except for the bent tube still listed below.